Marianne Kaltenbach, one of Switzerland’s most renowned and respected cookbook authors and food historians, calls this apple cake simply “die besten Apfelkuchen” the best apple cake.

Boy is she right.

It’s no wonder that it comes from Thurgau, Switzerland’s premier apple region, and one that boasts apple museums, apple-themed hiking trails, apple blossom spa visits, and even a pageant that crowns the yearly Äpfelkönigin, apple queen.

I’ve taken the recipe nearly exactly from Marianne Kaltenbach’s Aus Schweizer Kuchen because she is correct, it is the best. I’ve cut the apples in a bit of a more complicated way (typically they are left whole and the back is sliced open) ensuring better spread over the whole surface and meaning a lot of apple in every bite.

Another great take on the cake comes from Heddi at Cuisine Helvetica who uses olive oil in her version.

125 g butter

125 g sugar

2 eggs, separated

1 tsp salt

half a lemon, zest and juice

200 g flour

1 tsp baking powder

4-5 apples

cinnamon sugar for sprinkling

Preheat the oven to 180 C / 350 F / gas mark 4.

Butter a 26 cm (9 inch) springform pan. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Beat in the egg yolks, salt, and lemon zest and juice.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder.

In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff.

Alternatingly fold the flour mixture and egg whites into the butter mixture.

Spread into the bottom of the buttered pan.

Peel and slice the apples, then arrange on top of the batter.

Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar, then bake for about 30-35 minutes, or until the apples have started to brown.

• I made apple slices, but Marianne Kaltenbach’s recipe leaves the apples whole, simply slicing the tops (much like how they are made here in the Zürcher Pfarrhaustorte).

• Be sure to check that the batter is fully cooked—the apples should be soft, but also take a look right in the centre and use the toothpick test too, just to be sure.