Nocino Torte
I made this nutty and boozy cafe for my mom’s birthday a couple of weeks ago, and it was a hit—boozy, creamy and nutty all at once.
The nuttiness comes from Nocino, a liqueur popular in Ticino. It’s made by soaking green walnuts in spirits and it can be flavoured very lightly with cinnamon, lemon peel or coffee beans. The resulting liquid—deep brown, almost completely black—is then sweetened.
I made a batch last June, when the walnuts were still green (the traditional day to make this is on the eve of St. John’s Day, June 24th), and though it benefits from resting in the bottle for as long as a year or more (to soften the bitter tannins), I snuck out a little and used it in this cake. (And tried a nip or two, who am I kidding?)
(More on Nocino? I have some recipes on the blog, like Nocino Biscotti and this drink, plus there will be a guide to making your own, as well as some Nocino-based drinks in my new book on Swiss drinks coming May 2024! )
The cake recipe is another variation on my Zuger Kirschtorte.
I just never get tired of this style of cake—crispy meringue, tender sponge and silky buttercream, plus a bold boozy element. I’ve made variations before, like this Limoncellotorte, and I can imagine that other flavourful boozes like amaretto or even Eierlikör would lend themselves well to this style too.
Meringue:
4 egg whites
130 g sugar
130 g walnut flour
30 g flour
Preheat the oven to 160 C / 320 F / gas mark 3.
Line two baking sheets with parchment. Draw a 24 cm circle (using the base of a springform pan) on each.
Using a large bowl and an electric mixer, start whipping the egg whites. Once they are frothy, begin to add about half of the sugar a tablespoon at a time. Keep beating until the mixture is stiff and glossy.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the other half of the sugar, walnuts, and flour. Fold this gently into the beaten whites.
Scoop into a piping bag with a large nozzle and pipe two 24 cm meringue discs onto the parchment, following the template.
Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the meringue looks dry.
Set aside.
Sponge:
4 eggs, separated
100 g sugar
1 tbsp Nocino
1 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
100 g flour
20 g cornstarch
Preheat oven to 200 C / 350 F / gas mark 6.
Line the bottom of a 24 cm (9 inch) springform pan with parchment paper and lightly grease the sides.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, Nocino, salt, and vanilla.
Sift in the flour and cornstarch, then mix gently, using a spatula.
Using a large bowl and an electric mixer, whip the egg whites until they are stiff. Fold these gently into the batter.
Spread into the prepared pan.
Bake for about 15-20 minutes, or until the top is golden and the cake has started to pull away from the sides.
Let cool completely, remove from pan and set aside.
In a medium pot, whisk the cornstarch into the cold milk. Then whisk in the sugar.
Start heating over medium, then bring to a boil and let cook for a couple of minutes, or until thickened.
Remove from heat and let cool to at least room temperature.
In a large bowl, beat the butter until soft and fluffy. Add the cooled milk mixture a spoonful at a time and beat in well.
Stir in the Nocino.
Syrup:
125 ml water
100 g sugar
2 tbsp Nocino
In a small pot, whisk the sugar into the water. Bring to a boil.
Take off the heat and add the Nocino.
Assembly:
icing sugar
walnuts, toasted and chopped
Put a few strips of parchment or wax paper along the border of your serving plate, and a small blob of buttercream in the centre (this will hold the first layer in place).
Place a meringue layer on the bottom, bottom (flat) side down, then spread with buttercream.
To help absorb more syrup, slice a very thin layer off the top of the sponge, then place the sponge on top of the buttercream. Using a pastry brush, soak the top with lemon syrup. Cover with buttercream.
Place a meringue on top, with the bottom (flat) side up. Cover with the rest of the buttercream and make sure it is spread around the sides as well.
Press the toasted, chopped walnuts into the sides of the cake and along the top rim.
Carefully remove the paper strips, then serve.
If you don’t have walnut flour, you can substitute with ground almonds.
Don’t have Nocino? Try another spirit or liqueur like amaretto, or Limoncello.
For an extra boozy cake, you can soak both sides of the sponge in the Nocino syrup.
A serrated (bread) knife works well for cutting through the delicate meringue.