Magentraes is a pretty pink spiced sugar made in canton Glarus.

The pink hue and unusual flavour comes from the addition of sandalwood and, according to the Kulinarische Erbe, similar sugars have been made in Switzerland since the 1500s.

Initially a luxury product, spiced sugars became more common in the 18th and 19th centuries as sugar was more readily available (sugar beet production had begun in Europe, ending a reliance on sugar cane) and some, like Magentraes, were purported to help soothe upset stomachs.

The most common version of the sugar is Magentraes Trietolt, produced in Glarus and available in the region and online.

On a factory visit, the Kulinarisches Erbe got a hot take from the boss on what was needed to make Mägentraes: lots of experience, a good nose, and some imagination. Or, he said with a wink, a recipe passed down from your great-grandfather.

The sugar is Swiss and the spices (cinnamon, vanilla sugar, nutmeg, cloves and ginger) are imported and mostly ground in the factory (apart from the sandalwood, as they are not allowed to import whole pieces of wood).

For more facts about the sugar, Heddi over at Cuisine Helvetica has a great ten part list.

You can simply sprinkle your Magentraes on buttered bread, or make the old-fashioned Triätschnitten, which involves dusting bread with the pink sugar and soaking it in red wine.

I like to use it in the filling of a cinnamon roll, with it’s delightful pinkish hue and warm, spicy flavour.

If you can’t find Magentraes, you can try making your own—recipe (care of Betty Bossi) below.

250 g flour

5 g salt

150 ml milk, room temperature

10 g fresh yeast, or 1 tsp dry yeast

1 tsp sugar

30 g butter, room temperature

Filling

1 package Magentraes

30 g butter, room temperature

Glaze

egg yolk

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.

In another bowl, whisk together the milk, yeast and sugar.

Make a well in the flour and add the liquid ingredients. Stir this together until a dough starts to form, then add the butter and begin to knead it on the table. Knead for about 15-20 minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic. Alternatively, mix for about 10 minutes in a stand mixer with a dough hook. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for about an hour or until the dough has doubled in size.

Preheat your oven to 200° C / 400° F / gas mark 6.

Roll your dough into a rectangle.

For the filling, in a small bowl, mix together the Magentraes and butter.

Spread the filling over the dough, leaving a rim around the edge. Roll up the dough, pressing to seal, and then place in a parchment-lined loaf tin.

Brush with egg yolk, then bake for about 30 minutes or until browned to your liking.

• Betty Bossi has a recipe for Magentraes, if you would like to make your own. Just ground the following spices finely and mix with sugar:

  • 15 g cinnamon

  • 10 g sandalwood powder

  • 7 g anise

  • 7 g cloves

  • 5 g mace

  • 5 g nutmeg